Starting from December 15, 2023, Archivio J.M. Ribot and ink are holding the “Memoriae Cavsa Special Capsule” exhibition, inspired by the adorable Mormor in the store. Multiple exclusive cartoon characters are designed and presented in the form of special jacquard fabrics. In addition to a series of limited clothing items, there are also a perfume collection and Mormor figurines dressed in Archivio clothing (only 10 pieces). Designer Karim Fares will also be present at the event to interact with fans.
Archivio J.M. Ribot is a clothing research project by Karim Fares, featuring handcrafted limited-edition garments made from antique fabrics and buttons collected over years from flea markets across Italy, France, and the UK. Each piece is unique, with every detail being the result of Karim’s meticulous research over the years. Any imperfections are seen as precious elements bestowed by time, striving to make the garments timeless in the wearer’s heart (more details about Archivio J.M. Ribot can be found in Archivio J.M. Ribot: Continuing to Move Forward).
In Karim’s view, antique materials come from a different society, and the craftsmanship that matches them is the only way to achieve value and quality. As a result, Archivio strictly follows the oldest traditional garment-making methods, avoiding the use of overlock machines and relying on slow stitching techniques. This nostalgic aesthetic, deeply connected to material memory, provides a tactile and visual beauty that unknowingly overshadows everything else.
Additionally, Karim is one of the rare designers who avoids extensive use of social media, seldom showcasing himself or narrating elaborate brand stories. Instead, he communicates solely through his garments and travel photos on the brand’s official Instagram. “We do not believe in continuous rapid consumption, which is why we have chosen a very cautious marketing approach,” he explains. In a world filled with marketing and image crafting, Karim firmly believes that “speaking softly (through one’s work)” is often the best and most effective way to communicate, surpassing trends imposed by fashion. This attitude has also captivated stylish Hong Kong celebrities such as Tony Leung, Eason Chan, and Juno Mak, who have personally visited Ink to purchase Archivio products.
Ten avant-garde Mormor figurines dressed in Archivio clothing are handcrafted by Russian artisan Nadja. The main material is high-quality mohair, and the Archivio team styles each figurine. Every Mormor has a unique expression and outfit, each with its own exclusive number.
INK took this opportunity to conduct a brief interview with Karim Fares (hereafter referred to as KF). The following content has been organized, along with the author’s extensions and additions to the related concepts:
INK:
Has any designer/artist given you creative inspiration?
Karim Fares:
It’s difficult to pick just one. Every person is a result of their own experiences, environment, culture, history, etc. In my life, much of the inspiration comes from various fields: art, music, film, philosophy, and design. Here are a few people who have recently influenced my work: Andrei Tarkovsky, Francesca Woodman, Chet Baker, and Maria Lai.
Mascarar_11:
Andrei Tarkovsky: A Soviet filmmaker and screenwriter. His outstanding contributions to film language are widely recognized as exemplary. He created his unique and complete artistic style, allowing profound spiritual themes to unfold through solemn and melancholic poetic narratives, achieving perfect expression.
The visual presentation of Archivio J.M. Ribot is clearly influenced by Tarkovsky, and the AW21 collection is inspired by his film Nostalghia.
Francesca Woodman: An American photographer known for her self-portraits, where she places herself in empty indoor spaces. Due to motion, slow shutter speeds, and being obscured by objects or furniture, her form in the photos always appears blurred. In her short 22 years of life, she created a unique visual language with images that are both beautiful and unsettling, subtly conveying the fragility of life—fleeting yet with a sense of eternity.
Chet Baker: An American trumpeter, singer, and composer, a symbol of Cool Jazz. His music seems to carry an indescribable emotional trauma and landscapes.
Maria Lai: An Italian artist, with “line” being an essential material in her work. The rhythmic lines she wrote on paper left behind ordered and chaotic words that carry the past, present, and hold the future.
In Archivio J.M. Ribot’s AW22 collection, a letter, possibly a farewell letter, was sewn into shirts. “We left threads on the clothes like tears, just like the artworks of Maria Lai.”
INK:
What is your motto?
KF:
Each project has a different creative experience. In this project, I was influenced by the words of Jorge Luis Borges, and this poem inspired me to some extent: ‘Our memories make us; we are that chimerical museum of shifting shapes, that pile of broken mirrors.
Mascarar_11:
Jorge Luis Borges: The famous Argentine poet, who left many classic quotes.
“What can I use to keep you? I give you the desolate streets, the despairing sunset, the moon over the wilderness. I give you the sadness of a person who gazes at the lonely moon for a long time. I give you the loyalty of a person who has never had faith.”
INK:
Have you encountered any bottlenecks during your creative process? If so, how did you solve them?
KF:
Bottlenecks do occur sometimes. In such cases, I challenge myself to observe everything from different perspectives. Questioning and challenging myself gives me new motivation and opportunities, ultimately helping me find my own path.
INK:
What are your future plans for Archivio J.M. Ribot? In recent years, there has been aesthetic fatigue towards vintage fabrics in the market, and female customers are more passionate about ARCHIVIO (the men’s line) than RIFORMA (the women’s line). Have you considered making changes to the splicing styles or silhouettes (such as shoulder width, chest width) of ARCHIVIO to meet the demands of female customers?
KF:
The Archivio J.M. Ribot project was never just limited to clothing; it is a conceptual idea that involves fabrics, antiques, design objects, and vintage clothing. I want to return to this initial starting point in future projects, focusing more on design objects, furniture, and the remaking of antiques. As for splicing styles and silhouettes, as long as they feel right, sincere, and align with my “imagination” rather than commercial needs, I am always open to developing my work and making the necessary adaptations. I try to be honest with myself and my vision, and that, for me, is already a great achievement.
INK:
Have you considered developing your own fabrics in future collections?
KF:
In fact, I have already started developing exclusive fabrics for Archivio J.M. Ribot, as we have always been working with the best handmade factories. As you know, the essence of our project has always been very craft-oriented. Since the establishment of Archivio J.M. Ribot, we have been using antique textiles and buttons, and making clothes through a handcrafted, slow, and traditional process. That being said, developing exclusive fabrics is very exciting for me. It gives me a sense of freedom and openness and fills an important gap in our creative process. We will do our best to achieve this in the most responsible and conscious way.
Mascarar_11:
In Karim’s view, antique materials come from a different society, and the craftsmanship that matches them is the only way to realize value and quality. As a result, Archivio strictly follows the oldest traditions in garment making, without using any overlocking machines, and sews clothes using slow stitching techniques. This aesthetic system, born from a nostalgic sentiment and connected to material memories, brings an overwhelming tactile and visual experience that surpasses everything.
Karim marks the passage of time and enjoys studying materials. The images on Archivio J.M. Ribot clothing are often a combination of jacquard, hand-drawing, and printing, a technique developed by Karim himself, making the images more vivid. Some are even re-dyed and patched again to simulate the marks of time. Of course, antique fabrics are limited, so he also works with factories to “replicate” the rare antique fabrics he loves.
Archivio J.M. Ribot & ink
INK:
Do you like Chinese culture? Are there any traditional Chinese elements that interest you?
KF:
I have always been fascinated by Chinese culture, and over the past few years, I’ve been collecting some Chinese antiques. Recently, I’ve been particularly captivated by ancient Chinese porcelain, and I plan to build a personal collection around it in the coming years. On a different note, I’ve always been drawn to the concept of “beauty in imperfection.” I believe this project is a natural result of that fascination. This is also why I enjoy exploring abandoned places. One of the spots on my wish list has been a fishing village on Shengsi Islands that was abandoned for years and later reclaimed by nature. I hope to have the opportunity to visit there, along with other parts of China, to learn more about your culture in the near future.
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Archivio J.M. Ribot & ink
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Editor: Mascarar
